![]() ![]() Just follow the guidelines above to get the best results and then compare those to you, current workflow. There is a free trial available, so the best way to determine if this is an option for you or not is to download it yourself and give it a try on your own images. Some people might look at the same Image I am looking at and think it’s worse.įor that reason, I’m not going to get into a huge debate over the minutia of the details and post lots of comparison crops and so on. In my experience, when it’s this close, subjectivity comes into play, and it really is down to your preference. If I were to get into the nitty-gritty of it, then in terms of pure quality, Photo Lab with Deep Prime enabled, is probably is a tiny bit cleaner and more detailed than Capture One or Lightroom when using Enhance. The truth is, it’s very close, and a lot of it comes down to subjective opinion, and choice of image and so on. I’ve had a lot of questions from people wondering how it compares to other solutions, such as Capture One or Lightroom. If you’re trying out the software, check out these options. It’s like a combination of Dehaze and Clarity rolled into one, and can be useful as a kind of “make good” button. It doesn’t work all the time, but it can be a handy one click option to improve your image.Ĭlear View Plus is a really interesting tool. The first is like an auto-tool for the lighting n the image, and can quickly fix exposure issues without clipping or having to adjust highlights, shadows etc, and without having to make lots of tweaks. Two of the functions that I really like in the software is DXO Smart Lighting and DXO Clear View plus. If you’re new to DXO Photo Lab, it can be a bit daunting at first with all the options, but it’s not too difficult to navigate once you get used to it. For the softer zooms, I leave it as standard. For Fuji’s super sharp prime lenses, I think the default is a little high, so I set the Global lens sharpening to -1. Personally, I turn this down a little depending on the lens. In fact, if anything, it might be a little too strong. (If you are in a Project - you’ll need to go back to the folder view to see the DNG) The new DNG should appear in the browser next to the RAW file.If you want the files to stay in the same folder as the original, leave this setting in the folder section.Under the “Format” heading, select the Action pop-up menu and select “Export as DNG (Denoise and optical corrections only).Select DNG from the options on the left.Click on the export button at the bottom of the adjustments panel.Don’t do any other edits, or they will be lost.If you want to adjust the sharpness amount, you should do that now too. Make sure you have turned on Deep Prime in the Detail tab of the corrections interface.If you do want to go the DNG route, It’s quite straightforward to do, so here’s how to go about it: The first option is more economical in terms of disk space and time, but some people like to have a clean and artefact free image as a starting point, and in that case, using a DNG solves the issue. You can not worry about it, work on your image, do all the adjustments you want and then export at the end to a JPEG or Tiff with DeepPrime enabled.Īlternatively, you can export as a DNG in a way that bakes in DeepPrime and the optical and sharpening corrections, and then edit that. ![]() It’s kind of like how the “Enhance” function works in Lightroom (previously called “Enhance Details”) If you want to see what it’s actually going to look like on your whole image, you need to export first. You can get a preview in the preview window, but this is quite small. If you had been playing around with the software and wondered why you didn’t see a difference between turning it on or off, this is why. So, when you so see the pop-up dialog asking you to download the module, don’t be surprised (and click download!)ĭeep prime only renders when you export. They have profiled many, many combinations of lenses and cameras, and created complex profiles for lens defects to correct for them. The modules provide both geometry and sharpness corrections for lenses. Just click the download button to download and activate the module. When you first select an image for which you don’t already have a module, it will ask you to download it. If you haven’t used Photo Lab before, the software uses “modules” to apply corrections for lens and camera combinations. In this article, I’ll talk you through how to get the best results and some of the options you need to consider. However, to get the best quality, you need to jump through a few hoops first. Fujifilm support is currently in beta, but the software is capable of producing some really good results. When DXO Photo Lab 5 was released a few weeks ago, it came as a pleasant surprise to many that they had finally decided to support Fuji cameras.
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